Asyrtiko: This variety is often described as Greece's best white wine
grape. The enthusiasm of those who produce and enjoy wine from Asyrtiko
is well-justified, although, in part, the top status of this cultivar
results from something of a monopoly that is eroding slowly as
increasing numbers of lesser-known white varieties undergo modern
vinification. Asyrtiko has the distinction of being a southern
Mediterranean white grape that ripens to high acidity. Soil, climate
and elevation have significant effects on the outcome of vinification.
The Santorini whites in which it plays a dominant role are among the
most elegant in Greece.. It is a producer of fickle must. Despite the
incredible structure and agebility of its wines, it is high in phenolic
compounds and highly susceptible to oxidation. The tendency for
Asyrtiko to brown and produce darker aromas as a result of even
controlled oxidation has advantages in the vinification of Vinsanto,
yet its reaction to oak– especially to new oak–can test a winemaker's
skill in barrel selection and timing. The most successful barrel-aged
Asyrtiko wines seem the product of a stability-first philosophy in
which few chances are taken where the risk of over-oaking exists.
Asyrtiko has far more patience for old oak than for new. Some producers
striving to create oakier products they believe will appeal to New
World sensibilities have fallen victim to the merciless side of the
variety. In recent years,its range has been extended as far north as
Drama and it is achieving success in the hands of those sufficiently
respectful of its slightly volatile nature. |
