In asking many of the attendees at the 2004 New Zealand Winegrowers Tasting at the S.F. MOMA what was hot, it was easy to discern that two of the highlight wines being poured at the event were the super-premium wines from Hawkes Bay superstars Steve Smith and the late Doug Wisor of Craggy Range.

Both Sophia and Le Sol are part of Craggy Range’s Prestige Collection, where the emphasis is on creating expressive wines that show the unique Gimblett Gravels terroir. Only two of the six reserve-styled wines in the Prestige Collection are available in the U.S. market, with only 400 cases total allocated. These limited wines show the potential for greatness from the Hawkes Bay growing region that most wine enthusiasts here have yet to experience. Both wines are first crafted in the vineyard, where yields are severely reduced by high-density planting and extensive pruning. In the cellar, no expenses are spared. Only the finest oak available is used and only those lots which reflect world-class wine are selected for the final product.

The Sophia Merlot-Cab Franc blend is rich yet balanced, offering ripe cassis and cocoa laced flavors, with a weight and complexity that puts many California reds at twice the price to shame. The Le Sol Syrah is an all together different wine, showing again that the syrah grape has found a unique voice in Hawkes Bay. The color is impenetrable, the aromas of ripe blueberry overpowering and the palate presence undeniable. Weighing in at a whopping 15% alcohol, there is no discernible heat. Rather, what you taste is restrained by the acidity that comes from a cooler climate and the beguiling minerality that only comes from the gravel-laden soils of the district. These wines represent a winemaking tour-de-force that all serious aficionados should try before they disappear from inventory. --Chuck Hayward, The Down Under Digest, Issue No. 13, July, 2004.

Craggy Range produces a bevy of Bordeaux-styled reds (the Bordeaux varietals are believed to have the greatest potential in this area.) The 2002 “Sophia” Proprietary Red is a blend of 63% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon that easily could be mistaken for Cheval Blanc. Elegant, restrained, and nuanced, this deep ruby/purple-tinged 2002 reveals notes of menthol, tobacco leaf, black currants, and cranberries. Medium-bodied flavors linger on the palate. With good acidity, ripe tannin, and a long, nicely layered finish, it is hard to believe this is a New World Wine property. --Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate, October 25, 2004.